Jean Pavillard
Adventures to the Edge
FALL 2004 NEWSLETTER
October 5, 2003
Adventures to the Edge
FALL 2004 NEWSLETTER
October 5, 2003
Dear Friends,
News from the mountains and the many great adventures we have shared is long overdue. I was not able to mention every great adventure but to all, thank you, I am looking forward to seeing you soon.
As you are reading theses lines I am on my way to Chile to teach a guides course in the Portillo region. If you want to plan a ski tour, ski safari, a ski clinic or just do some fantastic skiing, please contact me at any time via email at atejeanp@aol.com or call me after the 18th of October at 970-209-3980. I presently have some time open for the late fall and early winter.
Talk to you soon,
JEAN.
DENALI, 20,320 ft. Alaska. MAY 6 - JUNE 4, 2003
Team: Monica Kalozdi with Tom, Doug, Jaime and myself.
For the 4th of the 7 summits I meet Monica and Doug the Cameraman in Talkeetna on May 16th. Prior to that Tom, Jaime and myself spent 7 days on the glacier setting up camps for smooth filming. We were able to reach medical camp at 14,000ft., stocking each camp with food and tents.
As usual Monica was in great condition and we moved quickly from base camp 7,200 ft. to camp 1 at 7,800 ft, camp 2 at 11,200 ft. and camp 3 at 14,000 ft. In just 3 days we reached medical camp. We spent a few days resting, getting acclimatized and filming as much as possible. On May 24th under a clear sky we moved to camp 4 at 17,000 ft, climbing via the head wall and the beautiful ridge, the days lended themselves perfectly to the filming.
By May 25th the weather was changing and by evening the forecast had wind warnings and new snow. I decide to anchor down, tying down the tents with ropes, building extra walls in order to wait for better days. Finally by May 28th after battling a true Denali storm, we were rewarded with exceptional conditions. Clear sky, fresh snow and no one around. All other teams went down right before, or at the beginning of the storm. Some teams suffered quite heavy camp damage and had to retreat during the storm. We climbed toward a glorious summit day, reaching the top 20,320 ft. at 4:00 pm with no wind, temperature of - 5 degrees Celsius. Endless views in all directions. After such a successful summit we ran down the mountain and a few days, we were met by Jeno at base camp, he had flown in a day earlier with the kids. A Few hours later for some, and a day later for others we were all back in Talkeetna fishing. I am sure we have made an awesome movie and I will let you know where to view it.
JUNE 9 - 16, 2003. From the Jura mountain to the Alps.
Hiking, mountaineering with Hughes, Betsy, Lucie and Sam Abell
Hughes had requested hiking around the Aera where I grew up in the Jura mountains of Switzerland, and with emotion I guided them to the Mt D'or, Dent de Vaulion and the Vallee de Joux. We stayed with my father who at 81 years old guided us through the caves of vallorbe, a 1-mile loop and 530 stairs. The second part of the tour took us to the les Dix hut above Arolla were 15 years ago I guided Hughes and Betsy for the first time via the famous Pas de Chevre, Glacier de Cheilon. We climbed La Luette and it was great time sharing another adventure with the entire family.
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Discover to the Alps.
It is always a pleasure to introduce new people to the Alps and share moment of discovery. In mid June I meet the Pierce family for some fun around Zermatt and in early July with John Goodman and family. We hiked to the base of the Matterhorn, climbed the Riffelhorn, battle the elements, rain and snow but finished with big great smile and good appetites.
I am looking forward to meeting up with these families again for more in depth adventures in the Alps or other mountains around the world.
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June 23 - 28: Training week in Switzerland With Lou Kasischke.
Lou and I had decided to spend a week in the alps training for a big peak like Mt Robson in September. We combined some rock climbing on the Miroir D' Argentine (14 pitches) , a via ferrata on the tour D'Ai and the north face of Tete Blanche on Trient glacier, already bare of snow due to the intense heat of this summer.
For sure all this training paid off. (to be continue in Sept).
Mt Robson South face
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July was a new experience for me, as for the next few weeks, I took some time off with my family and traveled to Lausanne and Paris. We hiked several via Ferrata with Mary and Francesca, visited family and friends and climbed the 14 pitches on the Miroir D' Argentine with my daughter Madeleine.
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Adventures in High Alpine Places.
August 3 - 8, 2003. The traditional Leysin Kids Climbing Camp:
Madeleine, Rene and I took charge of the 6 to 8 years old. Rock climbing, rappelling and glissading on the Diablerets Glacier , while Francesca and the olders kids climbed with P atou, Leo and Cedric. As always it is with pleasure that I taught, played and learned with this exceptional team.
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August 11 - 16. Swiss Alps.
The Bayback family of La Canada California.
The four brothers Nick, Luke, Max and Jule expected an adventure but that much I don't know. After one day rock climbing near Leysin reviewing knots and belaying techniques we hiked to the Orny and Trient huts. Crevasse rescue practice set everyone up for the following day. The ascent of Aiguille du Tour, usually a fairly straight forward climb but due to the extreme summer heat the glacier was quite open and the climb more challenging then planed, but they all manage super well.
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Gift of the heart.
August 18 - 26. Matterhorn with Kelly Perkins.
I am still processing this incredible adventure. After all, my company is called Adventures to the Edge. And that's what it is all about.
The team consisted of Kelly, a heart transplant recipient, her husband Craig climbing with Cedric the guide, Michael Brown the cameraman with his assistant Tim Brown and myself as expedition chief and Kelly's guide. This week took us above and beyond any previous climbs. First we started above Saas Almagell, trained on the Dri Hornli climbing a fantastic ridge, second we practiced some ice climbing on the Mittelruck and finally we traversed the Weissmeiss before returning to Zermatt.
On August 25, Kelly and the team successfully reached the summit of the Matterhorn, becoming the first person with a heart transplant to reach the summit. It was not only a beautiful day, it was an exceptional day and Kelly is a true inspiration. I will let you know when you will be able to view the movie.
*Check Matterhorn on my web site for photos and more info about this great adventure.
*Links: Kelly's site Michael Brown Hydra Coach
****** photos by Michael Brown ******
Inspiration
Matterhorn Summit
August 29 - Sept 6th Mt Robson
with Lou Kasischke.
A smooth helicopter ride brought us to the Dome at the base of the Kain face on the north east side of Mt. Robson. We established our camp and spend most of the day observing the route, preparing for an early start the next day. A few clouds came through but the forecast was good. The next morning by 3:00 am we were brewing tea and getting ready for a great day. An hour later we were negotiating the Bergshund with the Northern Lights north of us, and 7 pitches above us, we stood atop of the Kain face on North east ridge leading to the summit. This ridge is expose and icy condition asked for all our attention but at 10: 00 am we were rewarded, standing on the summit with no clouds, clear views in all direction and moderate wind. The descent, as always, required a lot of attention, we rappel the Kain face ( 9 rappels on bollard) and eleven and half hours later we enjoyed another cup of tea at camp.
Lou reaching the top of the Kain face Mt Robson from the Dome camp
September 11 - 17 Mt Victoria, Mt Athabasca
Richard, Jill Nelson and Dan Terspma
When Richard, Jill and Dan arrived in Lake Louise we already had 30 cm. of snow on the ground, but not enough to be discouraged. The next morning we reached lake O' Hara under a cover sky and started hiking thru spectacular landscape passing Lake Oesa. The climb from here is usually a very demanding exercise thru steep scree but the deep snow made it somewhat easier for us and the comfort of the hut made it a worth while goal in any type of condition. However, the ascent of Mt Victoria was greatly compromised due to the amount of snow and high wind so we enjoyed a great evening by the fire and the next day we hiked out, plowing thru even more snow.
Still full of enthusiasm we continued driving to the Beauty Inn Creek just past the Columbia ice field in order to climb Mt Athabasca. The weather was still variable alternating with rain and snow but by 6:00 am the next day when we reached the base of the moraine and things had turned around with clear skies, cold temperature, and a promising sun were upon us. We climbed the normal route of the North face in winter condition, braking trail, singing and regrouping once in a while for a drink. It was by far to cold at the summit to stay any length of time and we down climbed the South east face passing under Mt Andromeda and reaching the Columbia ice field and the comfort of the car by 6:00 pm.
If you remember Jill, Richard, Dan and I had trek, climb thru Nepal last year. We meet many Sherpas and porters. Richard and Jill started to communicate with Nigma one of our Sherpas and decided to help him establish a library in his town and rebuild the school.
Now you can visit Richard website and if desire help him improve the quality of education in Nepal by sponsoring one of his project:
www.richardjnelson.climberinfo.com
www.roomtoread.org
Abbott Pass Hut View from Abbott Hut with Lake Oesa Mt Athabasca
September 23 - 25, Hasty Johnson
Traverse Pyramid peak, Traverse of the Maroon Bell:
A Special Business Meeting. This was by far the best business meeting I have attended in a long time. Leaving home in Crested Butte I drove to Scofield pass and hike over West Maroon Pass to Aspen Highland. A three hours walk to a meeting! Who can ask for better setting with leaves turning yellows under the bright blue autumn sky. Only the deer looked a little puzzled at this business man going to a meeting.
The meeting covered the upcoming Hines ski trips, the Avalanche Institute funding and other potential climbing trip such as Canadian Rockies next July. Between theses intense meetings we still managed to climb few peaks. First we traverse Pyramid from the north west ridge to the north east ridge and then we traversed from North Maroon peak to South Maroon. The weather was excellent and we enjoyed quiet climbs with few encounter, mostly mountain goats and bighorn sheep. Finally we departed at the base of the South Maroon, Hasty returning to Aspen and Houston and myself hiking over West Maroon pass back to home.
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As you are reading theses lines I am in Chile teaching a guides course in the Portillo region.
This is the first course of its kind in Chile and we hope in the next couple of years to establish a full educational program for Chilean guides so they will be accepted as member of the UIAGM. The International Mountain Guides Association.
I will return to Crested Butte by October 18th. And will be working with the Crested Butte Academy on the skills week from Oct 21 thru the 24th. Check their web site at http://www.cbacademy.org
If you want to plan a ski tour, ski safari, a ski clinic or just do some fantastic skiing, please contact me at any time via email at atejeanp@aol.com or call me after the 18th of October at 970-209-3980. I presently have some time open for the late fall and early winter.
I am looking forward to sharing another great adventure with you.
Think snow !!
JEAN.
http://www.jpmountainguide.com