Adventures to the Edge

   

Climbing Mt Blanc, Matterhorn, Eiger - Itinerary

Tour description:
This tour is awesome, traveling thru three different regions of the Alps, from the beautiful granite and glaciated peaks of Mt Blanc massif, rock climbing the majestic pyramid of the Matterhorn to the most well known peak of the Berner Oberland, the Eiger. The program is intensive and requires an excellent physical condition.

The first and second day are set so to give time for the team to review techniques, learn new one and establish a report needed for the team to move effectively during the rest of the tour.


Jean Pavillard,
Internationally Certified Mountain Guide

Itinerary:

Day 1: Meet in Chamonix (noon), review gear, tour and conditions, climb at local wall, review techniques.

Day 2: Aig du Midi – Punta Helbronner by Cable car, Practice ice climbing, rope management, crevasse rescue, snow climb. Night at the refugio Torino.

Day 3: Ascent of either Tour ronde or Aiguille d’Entreve, traverse to Cosmique hut.
The Aiguille D’ Entreve is a good classic style alpine traverse with rock and snow, a ridge with many gendarmes requiring a lot of rope work. If you are fast, you can combine it with the Tour Ronde. The Tour Ronde North Face is also an option. Classic north face that require standard front pointing technique.

Day 4: Ascent of Cosmique Aręte. A classic that leave 50 yards from the Cosmique hut and finish on the deck of the Aiguille du midi. There is other climbs near by and you can decide with your guide if you prefer to do something harder base on condition, how you feel.

Day 5: Traverse of MT Blanc return to Chamonix. Beautiful traverse. An early start around 2:00 am. At first, you climb the Mt Blanc du Tacul, then Mount Maudit to the Brenva col and finally Le mur de la cote to the top of Mont Blanc. The descent is via Dome du gouter, Gouter hut, Nid d’Aigle were you will take the train to Bellevue and lift down to Les Houches.

Day 6: Transfer to Zermatt, via Martigny, Visp and Tasch. Travel time approx 5 hours by train.

Day 7: Hike to Hornli hut and check the portion of the climb that you will do during the night the next day. Approx to the third tower.

Day 8: Matterhorn ascent. A great day 10 to 12 hours but great ridge to climb with exceptional views.

Day 9: Transfer to Grindelwald – Kleine Scheidegg.via the Losghtberg tunnel, Kandersteg, Spiez, Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, klein Scheidegg.

Day 10: Train ride to Eismeer station. Get out onto the glacier via a window and a tunnel, cross the glacier below the south face. Climb two short pitches to get onto the ledges and follow them to Mittelegi hut.

Day 11: Ascent of Eiger, a classic tour with an unforgettable view on the Lauper route (North east face). Descent via the west face, which demand focus. Back to Klein Scheidegg, Grindelwald. End of service.

Difficulty:
This tour requires a good physical condition and the ability the move fast over alpine ground. The technical difficulty is within 5.5 /5.6 but the condition is changing rapidly and often one must rock climb with crampons.
Many ridge are easy but very expose and require precision foot placement.

Duration:
11 days / 10 nights
Tour Dates: any time between July 10 – September 15

Important Note:
The Mt Blanc portion is done on a 2:1 ratio. The Matterhorn and Eiger ascent is done on a 1:1 ratio
Tour for bigger group can be easily organize, but the Matterhorn ascent remain with 1:1 ration. Extra guides will join the group just for the ascent.

Cost
Full 11 day tour
Spring 2005
1 person $ 7,990
2 persons $ 5,950 per person


Cost Mt. Blanc & Matterhorn
7 Day tour
Spring 2005
1 person $ 5,500
2 persons $3,900 per person


Service includes:
  • Professional guide fee and guide expenses for entire tour
  • Second guide for the Mattehorn and Eiger
  • Hut fee with breakfast and dinner (5 nights)
  • Hotel in Zermatt ( 2 nights)
  • Lodge in Klein Scheidegg ( 1 night)
  • Transport during the tour
  • Train Chamonix-Zermatt, Zermatt-Klein Scheidegg-Eissmeer, Eissmeer –Grindelwald, Nid D’Aigle-Bellevue.
  • Lift Aiguille du Midi-Helbronner, Bellevue les Houches, Zermatt Schwarzee,
  • Group technical equipment
  • Radio, first aid kit, rope, climbing rack.


  • Not included in service:
  • Transfer to Chamonix
  • Transfer from Grindelwald or end of day August 31.
  • Hotel in Chamonix
  • Meals in town
  • Personal gear
  • Picnic lunches, snacks, drinks.
  • Incidentals

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