DOLOMITES BIG WALLS (climbing level grade VI and up UIAA)
Climbing the biggest faces of Italy - Dolomites
Marmolada South face (part of it)
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Crozzon del Brenta & Brentei Hut
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The biggest climbing faces of the Alps, pure rock climbing; this is not granite, not limestone, but "DOLOMIA". Marmolada, Civetta, Torre Trieste, Pelmo, Crozzon del Brenta, Altissimo, Tofane, Casale, are some of those giant. 3.000 feet vertical and more, routes of 7, 9, 12 hours of pure, beautiful climbing. Dolomia is in one way easier then granite. It is more broken, has more crags, handholds and footsteps. On the Dolomia you can find big walls, vertical or even little overhanging with difficulties that start from grade 5° (5.7)
Big walls are always big mountains, high, steep, with a long hike to reach and to get down. Climbing a big Dolomia wall is a great adventure, and can often be done in one long day.
Protection is mostly with normal pitons or nuts, sometimes runners are quite far away from each other, since we do not follow cracks, as on granite! Climbing is very beautiful, technically difficult and very challenging. Chimney, cracks, vertical slab, small little roof or short overhang - most of the time vertical. The way down is never short, often a mixture of hiking, climbing and rappelling. Huts are often at the base of the mountains, but we sometimes sleep in bivouac based on the summit, or to stay out for the night.
Best time period is from June 10th to September 20th, when snow is mostly off the faces.
Departures upon request.
DATES:
10 days from June 12th to September 20th
Day by Day Itinerary:
Day 1) Arrival in Italy and meet with the guide at the Airport. Suggested: Milan; Verona; Venice. Or directly at the Hotel. Transfer to Madonna Di Campiglio at the Base of Dolomite of Brenta. Check in at the Hotel for the night. Resting Time. Discussion and presentation of the week at Dinner.
Day 2) Hike to the Hut (1,30 hours) and then onto the first "Short climb" just behind the hut(10 min). Pilastro Bruno a beautiful training cliff 700feet high. It offers routes from grade VI (5.8) on. Fantastic roc. Rappel to the base. Sleep at the hut.
Day 3) Hike to the base of "Crozzon del Brenta". "Via delle Guide" (The Guide's route), is one of the more popular, beautiful, V, V+(5.7 / 5.8). About 2.700 feet vertical. The summit culminates at 10.300 feet. From the summit, in about 4 hours of walking and climbing we will get to the main peak of the range at 10.500 feet and then all the way down to our hut. If you prefer, on the very top of Crozzon we can stay for the night, in a comfortable bivouac.
Day 4) Return to the valley. Today we change area and group. We shall move to the Group of Civetta-Moiazza and walk up to the Torre Trieste, a 2.700 feet vertical pinnacle. It will take us 1,30 hour to walk down, 3 hours driving + 1,30 hours walk up to the hut. This will be a resting-transferring day.
Day 5) The base of the route is only 30 minutes away from the hut. The route, Vinazzer is a "classic". It used to be VI and A2 UIAA (5.9 / A2), but it can free climb( grade VII+/ 5.11). From the top, the only way back is a line of many rappels, till you are back at the base of this impressive cigar. Night in the same hut.
Day 6) Second day resting and transferring. We move to the most beautiful rock face of the Alps. 2 hours down, 2 hours driving, 2 hours up to be at the base: "The queen of the Dolomites, Marmolada". We will stay in a beautiful and comfortable hut resting, enjoying the beauty surrounding us. On this rock face there is one or two routes of grade V.(5.7), several of grade VI.(5.9) and many more of grade VII, VIII (5.10/ 5.11). Average length of the routes is 3.000 feet. The face range from 2.400 feet to 3.300 feet vertical. It is large about 17.000 feet.
Day 7) In less then one hour we reach our route. "Solleder + Messner direct" (or other base on ability and goal) from VI to VII+(5.9/5.10D) "all the way up". For; this difficulty is one of the nicest and historical (Messner climbed "solo" the direct on grade VII and it probably was one of the first time that difficulty was ever climb). From the top (12.000 ft) we do few short rappels down to the glacier on the north face and walk all the way down. Night in Town
Day 8) Rest day, end of tour.
Costs:
Guide fee: € 600 / day plus expenses ( ratio 1:1)
Guide fee: € 756 / day plus expenses (ratio 2:1)
If you prefer a package which is slightly less flexible you can budget as follow:
1 pax = € 5,450
2 pax = € 3,750
Costs Includes:
· Half board accommodation for 7 nights (5 alpine huts, 2 Hotel nights)
· Transport from and to the Airport and during the tour.
· All group technical equipment (ropes, belays, pitons, nuts, etc)
· Italian Alpine Guide UIAGM. English Speaking
· Organization and guiding by Liberavventura and Adventures the Edge
· Alpine Rescue insurance
Costs do not include
· VAT (20%) on Invoice ( paying expenses directly save on VAT tax)
· Flights or travel to Italy
· Drinks, snacks, lunches during the day (including drinks at Dinner)
· Incidentals
NOTES
- Length: 8 DAYS
- Difficulty: From grade III UIAA ( 5.8 and up)
- Training: Good training on expose multiple pitches
- Length: From 700 to 3000 ft
- Nights: Alpine huts
- Accommodation: Half board
- Hiking & climbing Personal clothing and shoes.
- Equipment to bring personal gear (no ropes or runners), shoes, clothing and boots
Torre Trieste. Civetta - Moiazza Group
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