THE DOLOMITES MOST BEAUTIFUL GROUP - The Brenta Group
(climbing from grade IV UIAA)
Big Wall, one pitch climb, pinnacles, sharp edge, towers....
Campanile Basso |
Dolomia is a young, smooth and soft roc. All mountains made of Dolomia are very much eroded,
have deep valleys that go all the way down to towns, have lots of broken roc and shaped, long pinnacles.
Among all the beautiful groups of Dolomites, there is one that is isolated by the others, there is one that is closer to the granite central Alps then to other dolomia group; there is one that looks like a big island of rock among Inhabited Valleys....it is the "Brenta Group".One can walk for days and meet only hikers and climbers; one can stay for months and climb everyday a different beautiful solid route. These are the mountains of Detassis (A famous climber, maybe not so known out of Italy), Maestri, "the Spider of the Dolomites"
(first ascent to Cerro Torre), Salvaterra (the most active climber of Patagonia).
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Routes are all beautiful and solid. Difficulties goes from grade II - III to grade X. Length goes from 2 pitches climb to 3.600 fts. Distances from the huts where we shall stay are from 10 to 90 minutes walk. Cars and Towns are far away for the all week. Protection is mostly with normal pitons or nuts (bolts are sometimes placed on belays). Rock is dolomia (a kind of limestone), mostly good, well shaped and with many good hand and footholds, very vertical and exposed. Climbing is very beautiful, technical, with good handhold and good use of feet. Most of the time vertical. Very changeable: chimney, crags, vertical slab, small little roof or short overhang. Way down is usually rappelling.
DATES:
Best period is Hut opening time From June 12th to September 20th The Brevier that look for
1 week completly isolated and with no people around may go for the period that stay the 2-3 weeks before or after these dates. Temperature may go lower to grade 0 during
the nights Huts will be closed, but winter bivouac will give good comfort
THE PROGRAM
Day 1) Arrival in Italy and meet with the guide by the Airports suggested: Milan; Verona; Venice. Or directly at the Hotel (if the climber arrive with his car). Transfer to Madonna Di Campiglio at the Base of Dolomite of Brenta. Check in at the Hotel for the night. Resting Time. Discussion and presentation of the week at Dinner.
Day 2) Hike to the Mountains (2hours). Climb of Castelletto Inferiore (Little Castle). 1.000 ft. Today route start with grade II. We can then move to different routes while climbing, choosing our best difficulties; we could reach the summit still on II or III or up to grade VI. Night at the Hut at the base of the roc face.
Day 3) Hike to the base of the "Torri Gemelle" (the "Twin Towers"). 2 hours of easy hike; or via a "ferrata", wire equipped trail. Climb on one or both of them (min. IV). Then rappelling down to the "roof of the next Hut, where we shall stay for the night.
Day 4) At few minutes of walking we go climbing Torre Molveno, one of the many beautiful picks that surround the Hut and its glaciological valley. Route is almost 1.000 ft of grade IV. Since this is one of the huts where food is really very good and it is placed in a beautiful landscape. We shall stay here for the second night.
Day 5) We shall move toward a different valley to climb the latest and most beautiful pillar of these Dolomites. The hike will be on a "Via Ferrata" called "via delle bocchette del brenta". It is a very exposed path, digged into the roc and equipped with a fixed wire all the way for the safety. It is very impressive and let people to traverse from one valley to the next, walking through the roc faces, more or less always at the same altitude. The rest of the day will be for resting or doing on easy climb by the next hut.
Day 6) it will be around 1 hour away to reach the base of the beautiful "Campanile basso" (short bell-tower) This Campanile is the symbol of these Dolomites and definitely one of the most impressive pinnacle of the Dolomites. Normal route is 1000 ft long, difficulty of grade III & IV. The most famous is a long dihedral (IV - V) of about 1.500 fts… However There are about 10 different routes of different difficulty, long to 1.600 ft. All Beautiful. Return to the same hut for the night
Day 7) The last day is free! It is free to decide how to get busy with it:
We might go back down to the Valley following a long beautiful walk throughout the group so to see many more beautiful faces.
We might go climbing a final beautiful route in order to finish the week climbing
We might go hiking up to the highest pick of the group "Mt Tosa" , which normal route start from here.
It will be decided together during the previous days.
COST:
Guide fee:
€ 395 / per day plus all expenses (1 pax)
€ 465 / per day plus all expenses for 2 pax
(include organization / reservation. Paying directly save on the VAT taxes)
If you prefer a package which is slightly less flexible you can budget as follow:
Costs: 1 pax = € 4,440
2 pax = € 3,000 per person
Costs Include:
· Half board accommodation for 7 nights (5 alpine huts, 2 Hotel)
· Transport from and to the Airport
· All group technical equipment (ropes, belays, pitons, nuts, ecc)
· Italian Alpine Guide UIAGM English Speaking
· Organization and guiding by Liberavventura and ATE
· Civil responsibility insurance and Alpine Rescue
Costs do not include: VAT (20%) on Invoice
· Flights or travel to Italy
· Drinks, snacks, lunches during the day (including drinks at Dinner)
· Everything not written and specified in "Costs Include"
NOTE - Length: 7 Days
- Difficulty: From grade III UIAA
- Training: Good training on expose multiple pitch
- Routes: From 700 to 3000 ft long
- Altitude: around 7.000 - 10.000 fts
- Nights: Alpine huts
- Accommodation: Half board
- Hiking & climbing Personal clothing and shoes.
-Equipment to bring personal gear, shoes, clothing and boots
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